When they tell you to use chemicals like sodium hydroxide to strip, that's fine for a circuit board, but will completely discolor brass within seconds. 99% of anything you find on the internet about etching is related to circuit boards. The piece just sitting stagnant in the solution will take 5 times longer to etch, and it also leads to pink.ĥ) Chemicals. Either do it by hand the entire time you're etching, or buy an orbital rotator to do it for you. Your solution needs to be constantly moving. When I didn't do that, most of the piece turned pink.Ĥ) Not rocking your solution.
The data sheets usually mention a dwell time of a few minutes, so every 2 minutes or so the piece comes out of the solution, all the bubbles that have formed on the surface pop, then it goes back in the solution. When I etch, I flip the piece every 2 minutes. When the temp goes above 120f or 49c, pink happens more often.ģ) Brass in solution too long. As the etching happens, the solution will naturally get warmer. If there are any bubbles or any air space between the film and the brass, the area under the bubble will turn pink.Ģ) Etching solution too hot. I don't use the toner transfer method like you do (I use the blue film), but some of the factors will likely cross over.ġ) Bubbles in the film. Like I mentioned before, I've found a lot of factors that cause the pink to come out when etching brass.
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